Next summer in Paris athletes will be stretching their limits at the Olympics, but designers are already vying for gold, silver, and bronze with their use of metallics. Evoking a different kind of sportiness was the polo shirt, which is to the spring season what the tank was to resort.
Also typical of the season are florals. Groundbreaking? Well, designers weren’t so much planting gardens as tending roses. These thorny beauties are heavy with symbolism, being associated with the Tudors (Britain does have a new king), the Madonna, Gertrude Stein, and, among many other things, Shakespeare, who spoke of the rose in Romeo and Juliet. Baz Luhrmann’s ever popular version of this tragic love story plays into ’90s nostalgia, and visually seems to relate to all the feathery touches fluttering around as the world moves forward on a wing and a prayer.
Sheer Delights: Diaphanous White Dresses
Looks by Prada, Stella McCartney, and Gabriela Hearst
The white dress, in various levels of transparency, is a key spring 2024 fashion trend, one that manifests designers’ quest for a feeling of lightness. At Prada, where Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons were aiming for “an absolute freedom of the body,” models appeared among curtains of slime in gossamer dresses made of mille-feuille layers of floaty fabric. While the form might be revealed through gossamer materials or draping, the effect is not a sexualization of the body as much as a classical take on it. More like the three Graces in Sandro Botticelli’s Primavera than Victoria’s Secret.
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Stella McCartney
photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Prada
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Gabriela Hearst
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Y/Project
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Duran Lantink
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Ermano Scervino
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com CFCL
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Tod’s
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Di Petsa
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Paolo Caranza
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Christian Dior
Photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com Holzweiler
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino Valentino
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Fashion East: Standing Ground
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Ulla Johnson
Photo: Courtesy of Fforme Fforme
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Bach Mai
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Walter Van Beirendonck, menswear
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Palomo Spain, menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Fetico Fetico
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Missoni
Photo: Courtesy of Alaïa Alaïa
Photo: Courtesy of DressedUndressed DressedUndressed
Photo: Courtesy of By Malene Birger By Malene Birger
Photo: Courtesy of Lafayette 148 Lafayette 148
Photo: Courtesy of Quira Quira
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Christopher Esber
Photo: Valerio Mezzanotti - Nowfashion / Courtesy of Caroline Hu Caroline Hu
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Mame Kurogouchi
Photo: Julian Wiesmes / Courtesy of William Fan William Fan
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Alberta Ferretti
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Victoria Beckham
Photo: Print Collector / Getty Images Primavera by Sandro Botticelli.
Summer Elegy: Serious Black
Looks by Maison Margiela, Undercover, and Saint Laurent
Lacking wings, people are earthbound. The predominance of black on the runways seemed to acknowledge the human condition while at the same time showing us how the imagination can soar, even in times of sadness.“He feels like he’s stuck in the world, buthewants to release himself,” said an interpreter backstage at Jun Takahashi’s Undercover show, which featured tulle-wrapped suits and luminous dresses that were temporary homes for butterflies. Shrouded looks also appeared at Issey Miyake and at Rick Owens.
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Undercover
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Maison Margiela
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Paolo Lanzi / Filippo Fior/ Gorunway.com Saint Laurent
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Burc Akyol, menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell Brandon Maxwell
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Givenchy
photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Ami, menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Helmut Lang Helmut Lang
Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Dolce & Gabbana
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Rokh
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Issey Miyake
Photo: Alessandro Furchino / Courtesy of Paula Canovas del Vas Paula Canovas del Vas
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Altuzarra
Photo: Finnegan Koichi Godenschweger / Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Week SF10G
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Uma Wang
Photo: Courtesy of Maison Rabih Kayrouz Maison Rabih Kayrouz
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Tove
Photo: Courtesy of Bite Studios Bite Studios
Photo: Courtesy of Hope For Flowers Hope for Flowers
Photo: Courtesy of Armarium Armarium
Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com Fashion Institute of Technology MA: Tom Zhendong Wen
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Mark Kenly Domino Tan
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Mugler
Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com Rick Owens
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Gabriela Hearst
Photo: Courtesy of Courrèges Courrèges
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Sergio Hudson
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga Balenciaga
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Yohji Yamamoto
Photo: Courtesy of The Row The Row
Photo: Henrik Blomqvest / Courtesy of Colville Colville
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Cecilie Bahnsen
Photo: Courtesy of Anna October Anna October
Air Con: Open-Work Materials
Looks by Bottega Veneta, Valentino, and Proenza Schouler
Taking functionality beyond cargo pockets, designers created lots of looks that had a cooling effect by virtue of the fact that they were made using openwork materials. These ranged from pom-pom embellished mesh at Bottega Veneta to a fine net at Proenza Schouler, and from artful cut-outs at Valentino to a lattice of shells at Versace.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Bottega Veneta
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino Valentino
Photo: Courtesy of Proenza Schouler Proenza Schouler
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Karoline Vitto
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Noir Kei Ninomiya
Photo: Courtesy of Diotima Diotima
photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Botter, menswear
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Huishan Zhang
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Yuhan Wang
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com ASAI
photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Isabel Marant
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com KNWLS
Photo: Courtesy of Arthur Arbesser Arthur Arbesser
Photo: Haydon Perrior / Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Week Sia Arnika
Credit: Marina Moscone Marina Moscone
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Diesel
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Jason Wu Collection
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Jil Sander
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Supriya Lele
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Chopova Lowena
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Tom Ford
Photo: Courtesy of Judy Turner Judy Turner
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Feben
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Staud
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Michael Kors Collection
The Garment
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Susan Fang
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Missoni
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Gypsy Sport
Photo: Jori Komulainen / Courtesy of Lu'u Dan Lu’u Dan, menswear
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Versace
Photo: Courtesy of Conner Ives Conner Ives
Photo: Johnson Lui / Courtesy of Zankov Zankov
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Tory Burch
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Wales Bonner
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Rolf Ekroth
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Moschino
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Ludovic de Saint Sernin, menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Lanvin Lanvin
Photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com Chloé
Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Antonio Marras
Photo: Natalia Alaverdian / Courtesy of A.W.A.K.E. Mode A.W.A.K.E. Mode
Photo: Alberto Maddaloni / Courtesy of The Attico The Attico
Edward Scissorhands: Slashes and Shreds
Looks by Fendi, Luar, and Peter Do
Not all holes in clothes were related to ventilation. Spring found designers slashing (see Peter Do and Courregès)—in the manner of Lucio Fontana’sConcetto Spaziale artworks—or shredding it for atimely “come undone” vibe.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Luar
Photo: Courtesy of Peter Do Peter Do
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Fendi
Photo: Courtesy of Courrèges Courrèges
Photo: Ik Aldama / Courtesy of Alexander McQueen Alexander McQueen
Photo: Courtesy of Shoop Shoop
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Doublet, menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Atlein Atlein
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Ann Demeulemeester
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Yohji Yamamoto
Photo: Courtesy of ATXV ATXV
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Del Core
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Issey Miyake
Photo: Courtesy of Setchu Setchu, menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Ambush Ambush
Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com Sacai
Photo: Courtesy of Meryll Rogge Meryll Rogge
Photo: Courtesy of Renaissance Renaissance Renaissance Renaissance
Photo: Courtesy of Hervé Leger Hervé Léger
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Avavav
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Schiaparelli
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Mowalola
Photo: Carlos + Alyse / Courtesy of Greta Constantine Greta Constantine
Photo: Courtesy of Y-3 Y-3, menswear
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Chet Lo
Photo: Maja Smiejkowska / Courtesy of Jawara Alleyne Jawara Alleyne
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Elena Velez
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Who Decides War, menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Yeohlee Yeohlee
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Latimmier
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Duran Lantink
Photo: Pictorial Parade / Getty Images Lucio Fontana at work.
Under Cover: Aprons
Looks by Christian Dior, Hermès, and Courrèges
The utility and protection associated with workwear has made its way into the ready-to-wear. While cargo pockets continue to sprout like mushrooms, what felt newest were aprons of all varieties—butcher, bib, waiter, hostess—which showed up at Christian Dior,Hermès, and The Row, for starters. In addition to these pop-overs, be they functional or decorative, some designers borrowed the garment’s simple square neckline and applied it to easy summer outfits.
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Hermès
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Christian Dior
Photo: Courtesy of Courrèges Courrèges
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Max Mara
Photo: Courtesy of The Row The Row
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com MM6 Maison Margiela
Heliot Emil
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Ann Demeulemeester
Photo: Courtesy of Sunnei Sunnei
photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Fendi, menswear
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Dion Lee
Photo: Cécile Bortoletti / Courtesy of Niccolò Pasqualetti Niccolò Pasqualetti
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Sacai, menswear
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Coach
Photo: Richard Kern / Courtesy of Rosetta Getty Rosetta Getty
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Emilia Wickstead
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Labrum London
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Tibi
Photo: Courtesy of Bode Bode, menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Co Co
Photo: Courtesy of Loro Piana Loro Piana
A Show of Hands: Sculptural Volumes
Looks from Y/Project, Rick Owens, and Louis Vuitton
As the world becomes ever more digital, the materiality of clothes grows in importance. One way to read the sculptural tactility of the spring collections—such as Glenn Martens’swired pieces and Junya Watanabe’s collages—is as a response, or riposte, to the glossy perfection of AI. Showing that “designers matter,” creative directors and their teams sunk their hands into fabric, crushing, twisting, and molding it into wonderful, evocative volumes, some of which evoked the sculptures of John Chamberlain.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Y/Project
Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com Rick Owens
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Louis Vuitton
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Issey Miyake
Photo: Courtesy of The Row The Row
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Bottega Veneta
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Puppets and Puppets
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com JW Anderson, menswear
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Hed Mayner, menswear
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com JW Anderson
Photo: Courtesy of Vetements Vetements
Photo: Courtesy of Khaite Khaite
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Uma Wang
Photo: Courtesy of Melitta Baumeister Melitta Baumeister
Photo: Courtesy of A.L.C. A.L.C.
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Comme des Garçons
Photo: Courtesy of Tomo Koizumi Tomo Koizumi
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Matty Bovan
Photo: Valerio Mezzanotti - Nowfashion / Courtesy of Caroline Hu Caroline Hu
Photo: Guillaume Roujas / Courtesy IFM Institut Français de la Mode: Lucie Neouze
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Roksanda
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Junya Watanabe
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Maison Margiela
Photo: Gregoire Avenel / Courtesy of Lemaire Lemaire, menswear
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Hodakova
Photo: Courtesy of Salon 1884 Salon 1884
Photo: Courtesy of Dagmar House of Dagmar
Photo: James Cochrane / Courtesy of Sharon Wauchob Sharon Wauchob
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Loewe
Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com Parsons MFA: Daorui Story Si
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com 16Arlington
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Dion Lee
Photo: Courtesy of Marie Adam-Leenaerdt Marie Adam-Leenaerdt
Photo: Sven Hoppe / picture alliance via Getty Images A sculpture by John Chamberlain.
A Bit of a Stretch: The Elongated Silhouette
Looks by Alaïa, Duran Lantink, and Loewe
Hems used to make headlines in fashion, but in this age of pantsless dressing the waistline has become as variable as the stock market. Mostly it’s going up. At Loewe and Alexander McQueen the waistband rose to Empire heights for men and women both. This tendency for a Giacometti-like attenuation was also seen at Alaïa, in the form of the must-have high-rise pant. But that’s not the only way the torso was stretched, there were dropped waists aplenty, as well as peplums, and, at Duran Lantink, body stockings that filled in the gap where a bared midriff would be.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Duran Lantink
Photo: Courtesy of Alaïa Alaïa
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Loewe
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Paolo Lanzi / Filippo Fior/ Gorunway.com Saint Laurent
Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen Alexander McQueen, menswear
Photo: Jun Okada (bNm) Hyke
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com 3.1 Phillip Lim
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Hermès
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Louis Vuitton
Photo: Courtesy of JFWO Viviano
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Issey Miyake
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Moschino
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com MM6 Maison Margiela
Photo: Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli Brunello Cucinelli
Photo: Courtesy of Monique Lhuillier Monique Lhuillier
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Schiaparelli
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com Bally
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Zimmermann
Photo: Courtesy of Nina Ricci Nina Ricci
Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com Rick Owens
Photo: Luis Monteiro / Courtesy of Duro Olowu Duro Olowu
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Ahluwalia
photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Prada
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Burberry
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Stefan Cooke
Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com Collina Strada
Photo: Finnegan Koichi Godenschweger / Courtesy of Berlin Fashion Week Bobkova
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Eudon Choi
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Carven
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Egonlab, menswear
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Prabal Gurung
NIHL, menswear
Plan C
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Ashlyn
Photo: Courtesy of We11done We11done
Photo: Courtesy of Khaite Khaite
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Chanel
Photo: Courtesy of Stella Jean Stella Jean
Photo: James Cochrane / Courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week Nicklas Skovgaard
Photo: Courtesy of Mossi Mossi
Photo: RDB / ullstein bild via Getty Images An Alberto Giacometti sculture.
Olympic Medals: Metallics
Looks from Rabanne, Ralph Lauren, and Alexander McQueen
Paris will soon be home to the 2024 Olympics where athletes from all around the world will compete. Those who push past their limits will receive medals as coveted as Oscar statuettes. As if in anticipation of the Games, designers dug into the metallic trend, expanding beyond gold and silver to include bronze as spring 2024 fashion trends.
Photo: Courtesy of Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren
Photo: Ik Aldama / Courtesy of Alexander McQueen Alexander McQueen
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Rabanne
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Giorgio Armani
Photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com Chloé
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Chanel
Photo: Courtesy of Marni Marni
Photo: Courtesy of Lutz Huelle Lutz Huelle
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Eckhaus Latta
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Ferrari
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Mame Kurogouchi
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Tom Ford
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga Balenciaga
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Diesel
Photo: Courtesy of Alexandre Vauthier Alexandre Vauthier
Photo: Courtesy of Coperni Coperni
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Miu Miu
Diotima
Photo: Ned & Aya / Courtesy of A. Potts A. Potts
Photo: Eva K Salvi / Courtesy of Edeline Lee Edeline Lee
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com LaPointe
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Ganni
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com The Attico
6397
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Kiko Kostadinov
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com LaQuan Smith
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Mowalola
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com No. 21
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
Photo: Courtesy of Loro Piana Loro Piana
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Michael Kors Collection
Photo: Courtesy of Rosie Assoulin Rosie Assoulin
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Fendi
Photo: Courtesy of Connor McKnight Connor McKnight
Photo: Suleika Mueller / Courtesy of Harris Reed Harris Reed
Pop Goes the Collar: The Polo Shirt
Looks from Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, Miu Miu, and Gucci
This season’s tank is the polo shirt, an icon of preppiness that was revived and given a summer-camp vibe at Miu Miu. It was also remixed by such anti-establishment brands as Y/Project and Vaquera, taking popped collars beyond the fraternity house.
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Miu Miu
Photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Gucci
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Loewe
Photo: Courtesy of The Row The Row
Photo: Courtesy of Commission Commission
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Carolina Herrera
Photo: Courtesy of Margaret Howell Margaret Howell
photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Fendi, menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Theory Theory
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Givenchy
Photo: Courtesy of R13 R13
Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com Parsons MFA: Ren Haixi
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Dior Men, menswear
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Y/Project
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com PH5
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Puppets and Puppets
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Dries Van Noten
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Vaquera
Photo: Courtesy of Bode Bode, menswear
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com MSGM
Veronica Beard
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Saks Potts
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Ottolinger
Photo: Courtesy of Maria McManus Maria McManus
Photo: Courtesy of Teurn Studios Teurn Studios
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com The Royal Danish Academy: Andrea Ashworth
Photo: Courtesy of Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Ralph Lauren
In the Name of the…Roses
Looks from Balmain, Simone Rocha, and Rolf Ekroth
The rose is the reigning monarch of flowers. As beautiful as it is commanding (those thorns are prickly indeed), this flower is as redolent with fragrance as it is symbolism. When Sarah Burton used it at McQueen the reference was to the Tudor rose, a sign of royalty. At Balmain, the nod was to Gertrude “A rose is a rose is a rose is a rose”Stein, a friend of Pierre Balmain (who was present at andwroteup the couturier’s debut for Vogue in 1945). The flower appeared as a print (see the chintz at Erdem), and was otherwise embellished and appliquéd in a 3D manner on all sorts of garments, but Simone Rocha and Rolf Ekroth took the abstraction out of the equation and used fresh cut blooms instead.
Photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com Simone Rocha
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Balmain
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com Rolf Ekroth
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Wiederhoeft
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Palomo Spain
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Undercover
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Giambattista Valli
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Tanner Fletcher
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Rachel Comey
Photo: Pascal Gambarte / Courtesy of All-In All-In
Photo: Liv Liberg / Courtesy of Toga Toga
Photo: Daria Kobayashi Ritch / Courtesy of Rodarte Rodarte
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Vivetta
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Sandy Liang
Photo: Courtesy of Valentino Valentino, menswear
Photo: Ik Aldama / Courtesy of Alexander McQueen Alexander McQueen
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com David Koma
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Kenzo, menswear
Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Antonio Marras
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Etro
Photo: Courtesy of Gerrit Jacob Gerrit Jacob
Photo: Laura S. Fuchs / Courtesy of Willy Chavarria Willy Chavarria, menswear
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Vaquera
Photo: Courtesy of Willie Norris for Outlier Willie Norris for Outlier
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com AZ Factory
Photo: Courtesy of Thebe Magugu Thebe Magugu
Photo: Thomas Garza Photography / Courtesy of Adam Lippes Adam Lippes
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Kim Shui
Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com Rave Review
Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga Balenciaga
Photo: Casper Sejersen / Courtesy of Shang Xia Shang Xia
Photo: Courtesy of Markarian Markarian
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Marine Serre, menswear
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Molly Goddard
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Erdem
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Richard Quinn
Photo: Valerio Mezzanotti - Nowfashion / Courtesy of Caroline Hu Caroline Hu
Photo: Hao Zeng / Courtesy of Lela Rose Lela Rose
Wings of Desire: Feathery Touches
Looks by JW Anderson, Mains, and Koché
Nineties nostalgia continues undiminished for spring 2024, and was present in garments and on moodboards. Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo + Juliet—angelic wings and medieval armor—seemed to be a cross-season reference. The message seems to be the same as that voiced by Real Life in 1983: “Send me an angel / Right now.”
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com JW Anderson
Photo: Ben Broomfield / Courtesy of Mains Mains
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Koché, menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Undercover Undercover
Photo: Courtesy of Maisie Wilen Maisie Wilen
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com Roksanda
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com Christopher Esber
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Adeam
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Acne Studios
Photo: Courtesy of Proenza Schouler Proenza Schouler
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Sportmax
Photo: Luis Morim / Courtesy of Marques Almeida Marques ’ Almeida
Photo: Malike Sadibe / Courtesy of Tia Adeola Tia Adeola
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Roberto Cavalli
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Yohji Yamamoto, menswear
Photo: Courtesy of Conner Ives Conner Ives
Photo: Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell Brandon Maxwell
Photo: Courtesy of Shinyakozuka Shinyakozuka
Photo: Courtesy of LRS LRS
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com Blumarine
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, menswear
Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com ERL, menswear
Photo: 20th Century Fox / Getty Images Claire Danes and Leonardi DiCaprio in Romeo + Juliet (1996).
I'm a fashion enthusiast with a deep understanding of the latest trends and developments in the fashion industry. I keep up with the latest fashion shows, designer collections, and industry news to stay informed about the ever-evolving world of fashion. My knowledge extends to the historical and cultural significance of various fashion trends, as well as the creative processes and inspirations behind designer collections.
Olympic Medals: Metallics
The upcoming 2024 Olympics in Paris have inspired designers to incorporate metallics into their collections, expanding beyond gold and silver to include bronze as a spring 2024 fashion trend. This trend reflects the anticipation and excitement surrounding the Games, with designers vying for gold, silver, and bronze with their use of metallics.
The Polo Shirt
The polo shirt has emerged as a key fashion trend for the spring season, akin to what the tank was to resort wear. Designers have reimagined the polo shirt, infusing it with a summer-camp vibe at Miu Miu and remixing it with anti-establishment brands like Y/Project and Vaquera. This iconic piece has been given a fresh and contemporary twist, making it a standout trend for the upcoming season.
Roses
The rose, as a symbol of beauty and significance, has made a prominent appearance in designer collections. It is associated with various cultural and historical references, including the Tudors, the Madonna, Gertrude Stein, and Shakespeare's "Romeo and Juliet." Designers have utilized the rose as a print, embellishment, and 3D appliqué, showcasing its timeless appeal and versatility in fashion.
Serious Black
The predominance of black on the runways reflects an acknowledgment of the human condition and the ability of imagination to soar even in times of sadness. This trend is exemplified by shrouded looks at various fashion shows, including tulle-wrapped suits and luminous dresses that symbolize the human desire for release and transcendence.
Diaphanous White Dresses
The white dress, in various levels of transparency, is a key spring 2024 fashion trend, reflecting designers' quest for a feeling of lightness. This trend is exemplified by looks from Prada, Stella McCartney, and Gabriela Hearst, where models appeared among curtains of slime in gossamer dresses made of floaty fabric, evoking a sense of freedom and classical elegance.
Open-Work Materials
Designers have taken functionality beyond cargo pockets by creating looks with openwork materials, such as pom-pom embellished mesh at Bottega Veneta, fine net at Proenza Schouler, and artful cut-outs at Valentino. These materials provide a cooling effect and add a sense of modernity and innovation to the spring collections.
Slashes and Shreds
Not all holes in clothes were related to ventilation in the spring 2024 collections. Designers have incorporated slashing and shredding techniques to create a timely "come undone" vibe, reminiscent of Lucio Fontana's Concetto Spaziale artworks. This trend adds an edgy and avant-garde element to the fashion landscape.
Aprons
The utility and protection associated with workwear have made their way into ready-to-wear fashion. Aprons of all varieties, including butcher, bib, waiter, and hostess styles, have been featured in collections from Christian Dior, Hermès, and Courrèges, showcasing a blend of functionality and decorative elements in summer outfits.
Sculptural Volumes
The sculptural tactility of the spring collections reflects a response to the glossy perfection of AI, emphasizing the materiality of clothes. Designers have created evocative volumes by manipulating fabric, crushing, twisting, and molding it into unique and expressive forms, showcasing the craftsmanship and artistry of fashion design.
The Elongated Silhouette
The spring 2024 collections have embraced an elongated silhouette, with hems and waistlines becoming variable and adaptable. This trend is characterized by high-rise pants, dropped waists, peplums, and body stockings, reflecting a Giacometti-like attenuation and a departure from traditional waistlines and silhouettes.
Feathery Touches
Nineties nostalgia continues to influence fashion, with designers incorporating feathery touches into their collections. This trend is exemplified by garments and moodboards inspired by Baz Luhrmann's "Romeo + Juliet," featuring angelic wings, medieval armor, and a cross-season reference to the '90s. The incorporation of feathery elements adds a whimsical and nostalgic touch to the spring collections.
This comprehensive overview of the spring 2024 fashion concepts provides a glimpse into the diverse and innovative trends shaping the fashion landscape, from metallics and polo shirts to roses and diaphanous white dresses.
